Places in Hakone
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HAKONE
Hakone is most quickly reached from
Yokohama and Tokyo by the Tokaido Railway as far as Kozu, thence by tram to
Yumoto, and on foot or in kago along the old Tokaido up the Hakone pass via
Hata, the entire journey taking about 6 hrs. from Yokohama, or 7 hrs. from
Tokyo. The way up the Hakone pass is picturesque, notwithstanding recent
deforestation; but the road is stony beyond description. Many residents prefer
to travel via Miyanoshita, where they spend the night, and then push on next
morning.
The respective merits of Hakone and
Miyanoshita may be summed up as follows. Miyanoshita has the advantage of hot
springs, a drier air, easier access, and a hotel in European style. Hakone is
cooler, being just 1,000 ft. higher, it affords more privacy, and has a
picturesque lake where one may bathe and boat and go on water picnics. The view
of Fuji too, and the reflection of Fuji in the lake (Hakone no saka-Fuji) are great
attractions. In winter the advantage is altogether on Miyanoshita's side. No
one thinks of staying at Hakone during that season, whereas Miyanoshita is
pleasant all the year round. Indeed, many prefer the early winter there to the
summer, as the air is almost always clear in winter, and walking consequently
more enjoyable. The chief inn at Hakone is the Hafu-ya, on the lake. But as
nearly every house in the village is to let during the summer season, the plan
usually followed by families from Yokohama and the China ports is to hire a
separate residence by the month, bring their own servants with them, and set up
housekeeping. European furniture of a rough land is generally obtainable, as
also provisions during the summer season.
Some of the most enjoyable expeditions from
Hakone are the same as those already described from Miyanoshita, for instance,
those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu, up Futago-yama, etc. The following may also be
recommended:
First - The Temple of Gongen, 1 1/4 miles.
The way leads along an avenue of fine cryptomerias that lines the Tokaido. A
flight of steps will be seen right, near which formerly stood the old Barrier
{Hakone no seki) and guardhouse, where all travellers were challenged and
required to show their passports. The barrier was removed in 1871, but part of
the stonework still remains.
Kaempfer, who passed this way on Sunday,
the 11th March, 1691, writes of this guardhouse as follows :—" We came to
the Imperial guard at the end of the village, where all the Japanese came out
of their Norimons and Cangos, and those on horseback alighted from their
horses, presenting themselves very respectfully and bareheaded, to be searched,
which however was done but slightly. If there be any the least suspicion of a
woman, disguised in mans cloaths, they must be more narrowly searched, with
this difference however, that in this case, they are examined by women. Private
persons going up to Jedo, must show their Passports at this place, otherwise
they are kept under arrest for three days, before they are permitted to pursue
their journey."
Following along the avenue, we soon come left
to an Imperial Summer Palace (Rikyu), not accessible to the public. The next
point in the road is the Matsuzaka-ya inn, commanding the best view of Fuji to
be had anywhere on the shores of the lake. A little further on, we pass under a
stone torii, and enter the hamlet of Moto-Hakone. We then turn slightly to the left,
passing under a red torii, by the side of which stands a wooden shed containing
two iron rice-boilers said to have been used by Yoritomo on his hunting
expeditions. The road here skirts the lake, soon bringing us to a charming
vista as we ascend to the foot of the temple steps. On the left, just before
passing through the torii, stands the custodian's house, where Yoritomo's sword
and other relics are preserved. Also on the left, half-way up, is a shrine
dedicated to the Soga Brethren. The main temple is a picturesque relic of
mouldering antiquity. The annual festival is celebrated on the 1st August.
Second - Walk to the End of the Lake, 5 miles
along the east shore to Umijiri, as the north end of the lake is called.
Third - Along the Sukumo-gawa. This is a
picturesque, but rather rough walk. The stream has to be perpetually crossed
and re-crossed, and sometimes wading is unavoidable. The path finally leads out
near the villi, of Hata, whence home. At the beginning of the valley, a path to
the right leads to Yoshihama on the coast.
Fouth - Walks in the direction of
Atami.—Several pleasant walks can be taken in the direction of the Ten Province
Pass and Atami, notably one up the slope of Okomayama and over Kazakoshi-yama,
to the highest point of the Tokaido, where, on a little plateau, the boundary
post between the provinces of Sagami and Izu is placed ; and back to Hakone by
the Tokaido :—distance about 3 ˝ mile. But of all walks in this direction, the
most delightful is that to the Ten Province Pass.
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